Cayo Romano, Cuba - A newly discovered flats fishing paradise
by Richard French, 02 August 2010
One of my passions is scouting out new areas of the world that have not seen much if any angling pressure. There is no doubt that as the world gets smaller, it is getting increasingly harder to find these kinds of places. Nonetheless, I try to dedicate at least two weeks each year to doing exactly that. I find the thrill of stepping out into the unknown an intoxicating mixture of hope and excitement and I know how truly fortunate I am to be able to do this. When I’m on one of these trips, I often think of many of our clients, who have become such good friends over the years. Most of our anglers can’t get away to do this kind of trip and really, they shouldn’t. Exploratory trips are frequently a huge waste of time and when you have so few days to fish during the year, it’s simply not worth the risk. But for me, this is my job. If I come back covered in bug bites and not having seen a fish all week, it doesn’t matter. Far better me than any of our clients! And besides, terrible bugs, lower lumbar destroying beds and no fish are often the least of my problems when working one of these adventures. I’ve found myself in some pretty sketchy situations over the years, from blown airplane engines as I’m barreling down a dirt runway in the jungle to irate soldiers armed to the teeth with Kalasknikovs. You just never know what’s around the corner when you’re fishing the edges. Sometimes it’s a total bust. Other times you’ll get an inkling of what a location could be, if it had guides, running water, engines that work and a place to sleep where you weren’t getting rained on all night. On very rare occasions, I’ll find a location that’s the equivalent of hitting a home run. Excellent fishing, good accommodations, transportation infrastructure, a reliable guide network, etc. The last week of July, I hit one out of the park.
Cayo Romano/Cruz, Cuba
I just got back from fishing the Cayo Romano/Cruz area, on the eastern edge of the Jardines Del Rey, in Cameguey, Cuba. The Cayo Romano/Cruz Cayo area is located off the northern coast of Cuba, about a 9 hour drive from Havana. I flew from Havana to Cayo Coco and then drove 90 minutes east to the town of Brasil, which is where the lodge is located. Cayo Romano is the largest of the island chain known as the Sabana-Camaguey Archipelago (or more commonly known as the Jardines del Rey, Gardens of the King). Some of the efforts to increase its desirability as a tourist destination are visible in the aerial photograph above, including a causeway to the mainland in the upper right corner of the shot. The airstrip built on Cayo Coco in 1995 is visible as the long rectangular white patch at the bottom right. The large island to the center left of the aerial is Cayo Cruz, where the flats skiffs depart from each morning. Further left you can see the barrier reef, which is one of the least explored reefs in the Western Hemisphere. While Cayo Coco has been developed heavily over the past 15 years, Cayo Romano/Cruz has been left completely untouched, other than the causeway which runs from the mainland up to Cayo Cruz. There are no hotels, no busloads of tourists. Nothing! All you’ll find is a pristine natural environment that is home to a staggering array of flora and fauna. This area is home to an estimated 40,000 flamingoes, which is no surprise given that the islands are low-lying, with much of the region covered by mangroves and wetlands. The Cayo Romano/Cruz fishery has been designated as a sport fish only area, meaning that no commercial fishing is permitted over an area of 366 square kilometers. This means that on any given day, each flats skiff has an incredible 54 square kilometers of flats, bays, islands and estuaries, all to itself. The Cuban government tightly monitors the area and all anglers have to be checked in and out each day at a Cuban military checkpoint.
The fishery has actually been operating for two years now but the area has not seen many anglers since it opened in 2008.
The flats fishing was so far beyond my level of expectation when I got there, that I actually had some trouble processing the experience for the first couple of days. The bonefish were a healthy 4-5 pound average and I hooked and lost 2 fish on my last day that were at least 10 pounds. These fish are not in any way educated and they attacked my flies as though they’d never eaten before. I found tailers, singles, doubles and large schools of several hundred fish. The quality of the permit fishing was a real eye opener and I had shots at many tailing fish during my 5 days. And although I battled a fair bit of rain, wind and cloudy conditions, I found permit each day, tailing in 2-3 feet of water. It pleasantly reminded me of permit fishing in Southern Belize. On my third day alone, I saw about 20 permit while looking for bonefish and I had shots at 7 of them. How untouched is this fishery? Well, on my second day of fishing, I was with two guides in the boat. I had asked to have two guides fish with me each day (late July and I was the only angler there) so that I could meet them all and get a feel for each of their skill levels. The guides took me to a specific section of flats that they were very eager to show me. Numerous good sized bonefish was the promise.
It’s about an hour later we’re hammering 4-6 pound bones while drifting down the edge of a long skinny island. I’m at the front of the boat and the two guides are at the back, one of whom was on the poling platform. About a half mile further down I see this enormous white sand flat that stretched about as far as I could see. The guides were starting to veer off and take me to a new location they wanted to show me. I asked them to take me further down to the huge white sand flat that I’d been eying off in the distance. The guides told me that they’d never been that far down in this area and that they did not know what we’d find there. They said that they’d never gone down that far because they always found plenty of fish in the area that we were currently fishing. I said, “lets go check it out”, and so we did. As soon as we polled up to the edge of the sand flat, we saw several large bones weighing about 6-7 pounds, just happily tailing away in about 4 inches of water. My jaw was practically dragging on the sand. I got out of the skiff and cast to the closest fish. It hammered my size 2 Gotcha as soon as it hit the water. I did not even have time to strip the fly. I then spent the next 60 minutes walking this beautiful hard packed white sand flat, while casting to many large fish. I must have caught about 8 or 9 bonefish during the hour, each weighing at least 5 pounds. It was absolutely magical! I saw so many areas in my 5 days at Romano/Cruz where I would ask the guide, “what’s that place like” and they would say “We don’t know. We’ve never fished there before”.
The Cayo Romano/Cruz fishery has scarcely been explored and the guides have just scratched the surface in terms of what is actually there.
Needless to say, I cannot wait to get back there.
If you would like more information about this destination or would like to join one of my two hosted weeks at Cayo Romano/Cruz in May of 2011, please feel free to contact me at your earliest convenience.
Week 1 - April 30 to May 8, 2011
Week 2 - May 7 to 15, 2011
Visit the Cayo Romano/Cruz section of our web site for more information.